Thursday 8 October 2009

Been a while.

Its been a while since I was here. As I only have one loyal follower and he's off in Aussie having it a good time it really don't matter too much.

surfs not been so prosperous for me as I'm still nagged by my shoulder so we've been on other things.

Going to footy has been one of these things. All loses but the oppotunity to see some of the best( not to mention most expensive) players is one too good to pass up.

Went to Somo last weekend to see and talk to Tom Wegener. Cool dude and freaky boards. My son got some waves on his sisters 7 footer. Pushed him into some little waves and he was up and running, taking it all the way into the beach to the applause of all gathered. This kid could be a good surfer if he wants. Time will tell.

going now. Will post again soon

Friday 18 September 2009

Yesterday

Thursday was a good day. Decent day at work and a good session in the water. Bummed about the lack of photo ops there are for longboarders. What do you have to do? Run the buggers over?

If you are going to be in the water taking photos, think about everybody else, eh!

Photog gets into water with girl surfer flavour of the month. Maybe its a publicity thing or maybe mummy and daddy have paid for a sesh with the cameraman in question. Really I don't care too much. Everybody has to make a living in this day and age.

What I disagree with is the fact that after been in the water for a good hour solid, catching some really good lefts and STYLING with a capital S, I call 'my wave' with all the rights in the world( see surfers code) , said girl surfer does the right thing and cedes the right of way( kudos to her, she coulda snaked me) but the photographer looks totally pissed at me as I hang 5 past him. Take the shot ya prick. I don't get into these positions that often! Whats he got against slightly chunky, bearded loggers? Awesome wave tho'. Pissing him off gave me some satisfaction, photo would've been nice tho'.

Theres a vacancy for a photographer who wants a subject/ muse if anyones interested.


Sunday 13 September 2009

Sardifornia

Such a Spanish thing to do - compare yourself to something that you'll never be. So far I've counted at least 4 lame _fornias in the surf press over here. Get a life. Be happy with this place as it is. Stop making lame comparisons. We have nothing to be envious about. Certainly less Americans in the line up.

Friday 11 September 2009

Nº 2




Cheers to Dave for being the first to jump on my shopping trolley of a blog. Just for you I'm uploading some photos of mother nature kicking arse last winter. They were taken at 'la Maruca'. It's an old fishing port that has some serious history behind it. It has some good waves at times but you have to get the day right 'cos its all rocks as far as the eye can see. Blow your take off and it's a nasty experience on more powerful days. From the safety of land I took these photos with my little digital camera. Unfortunately you can't really get an idea of the scale, but the cliff is probably in the 10 metre range. Enjoy!

Thursday 10 September 2009

Day one


Hey there... This is my Blog in which I'll be spouting my ideas, thoughts, etc for everyone to read. I hope you like it. Frequency may be an issue , so don't go expecting updates everyday (if anyones reading).

So until tomorrow. Guess this could be like Tenacious d's one note song, but retitled Sean's one post blog. Rock on