Plastic unfantastic

Went to La Maruca last Sunday and managed to collect this crap out from around the rocks and stuff. The worst thing was the mix of domestic and imported plastic. Loads of stuff from the UK seems to washing up over here. Rude!

Back down there tomorrow for a half hour clean up.

the week that was

Pretty good weather this week. Managed to get a couple of surfs in. One on the sponge and one on the Log. Different days, different waves, same beach! Blown out at the moment so its off to the park for a wnder round.

Watching footie in the cold

whats the point of going to the footie only to see your team humiliated at the hands of a supposedly inferior team. and it was cold! This is why surfing can't be a team sport!

happy new year, merry christmas and happy valentines

It's been far too long between posts, nearly forgot this was here! Never mind. everything is well and good as can be expected in the cold of winter. New year and new ink have arrived. Will try and write here more often with photos and stuff. Can only get better. Thinking of a name change for blog. can this be done?

Soon...

Been a while.

Its been a while since I was here. As I only have one loyal follower and he's off in Aussie having it a good time it really don't matter too much.

surfs not been so prosperous for me as I'm still nagged by my shoulder so we've been on other things.

Going to footy has been one of these things. All loses but the oppotunity to see some of the best( not to mention most expensive) players is one too good to pass up.

Went to Somo last weekend to see and talk to Tom Wegener. Cool dude and freaky boards. My son got some waves on his sisters 7 footer. Pushed him into some little waves and he was up and running, taking it all the way into the beach to the applause of all gathered. This kid could be a good surfer if he wants. Time will tell.

going now. Will post again soon

Yesterday

Thursday was a good day. Decent day at work and a good session in the water. Bummed about the lack of photo ops there are for longboarders. What do you have to do? Run the buggers over?

If you are going to be in the water taking photos, think about everybody else, eh!

Photog gets into water with girl surfer flavour of the month. Maybe its a publicity thing or maybe mummy and daddy have paid for a sesh with the cameraman in question. Really I don't care too much. Everybody has to make a living in this day and age.

What I disagree with is the fact that after been in the water for a good hour solid, catching some really good lefts and STYLING with a capital S, I call 'my wave' with all the rights in the world( see surfers code) , said girl surfer does the right thing and cedes the right of way( kudos to her, she coulda snaked me) but the photographer looks totally pissed at me as I hang 5 past him. Take the shot ya prick. I don't get into these positions that often! Whats he got against slightly chunky, bearded loggers? Awesome wave tho'. Pissing him off gave me some satisfaction, photo would've been nice tho'.

Theres a vacancy for a photographer who wants a subject/ muse if anyones interested.

Sardifornia

Such a Spanish thing to do - compare yourself to something that you'll never be. So far I've counted at least 4 lame _fornias in the surf press over here. Get a life. Be happy with this place as it is. Stop making lame comparisons. We have nothing to be envious about. Certainly less Americans in the line up.