Yesterday

Thursday was a good day. Decent day at work and a good session in the water. Bummed about the lack of photo ops there are for longboarders. What do you have to do? Run the buggers over?

If you are going to be in the water taking photos, think about everybody else, eh!

Photog gets into water with girl surfer flavour of the month. Maybe its a publicity thing or maybe mummy and daddy have paid for a sesh with the cameraman in question. Really I don't care too much. Everybody has to make a living in this day and age.

What I disagree with is the fact that after been in the water for a good hour solid, catching some really good lefts and STYLING with a capital S, I call 'my wave' with all the rights in the world( see surfers code) , said girl surfer does the right thing and cedes the right of way( kudos to her, she coulda snaked me) but the photographer looks totally pissed at me as I hang 5 past him. Take the shot ya prick. I don't get into these positions that often! Whats he got against slightly chunky, bearded loggers? Awesome wave tho'. Pissing him off gave me some satisfaction, photo would've been nice tho'.

Theres a vacancy for a photographer who wants a subject/ muse if anyones interested.